ss23 cicada
This junior collection’s concept is based on the metamorphosis of the body through the military institution. It is executed through extension, peeling, severance, and distressing of garments.
Manipulations and patterns are informed by anatomical and geometric structures. Many aspects of this collection are inspired by personal military experience.
photography: alex callejo, anaya engineer
materials
transparent horse “cicada” leather
Maryam Tannery represents a centuries-old Tuscan tradition of vegetable tanning, a slow practice of preserving hides without the use of heavy metals. The tannery’s skins are only sourced from the food industry, diverting waste and creating a product that can last generations.
These transparent hides have the qualities of ancient parchment, but is a durable and flexible material through the use of glycerin and oils in the tanning process.
This material was selected for its unique transparency to compliment the concept of the collection. There is a reminder of the material’s origins with its uncanny hand, and the dissociative sensation of seeing ones skin though another skin.
Ecco Leather prides itself in being a “design-led tannery” based in the Netherlands.
Their tanning uses innovative processes that have unprecedented sustainability in their industry. This includes internal water recycling, developing a “dry tanning” method, organic tanning, and sourcing materials from the food industry.
Ecco’s Vesper leather is polished with agate to a marble-like finish, and has a spongy body
ecco vesper leather
ecco fsdx dyneema leather
Ecco developed FSDX Dyneema leather to be paper-thin, lightweight, yet provide unmatched durability. The bovine leather is shaved down to be extremely thin and is then fused to the Dyneema fabric.
A bio-based Dyneema was used create the first ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber, a fiber that reduces fossil fuel-based resource reliance
Made by Yoshiwa in Japan, this natural-dyed denim is made on traditional shuttle looms. These looms are significantly slower, but produce a softer fabric.
Selvedge denim is prized for its distinct hand and quality. This makes for a long-lasting garment that supports a shrinking industry of dedicated mills for traditional denim.
yoshiwa 10oz black/charcoal denim
cotton & wool gauze, carded wool
Sourced from a fabric distributor that deals with overproduced remnants in the industry. This biodegradable fabric meets their Circular Fabric Standard: a zero-waste, zero-resource consumption, and minimal energy standard.
Gauze fabrics are used to represent medical gauze for dressing wounds.
carded wool
cotton gauze
wool gauze